Question

THIS PERSON IS ON SEVERAL NEWSGROUPS WITH THIS SAME AND SIMULAR ADDS!!!
He always uses the same phrases. He never responds to an emal and may just be an email address collector.

There are other warnings by other users

Answers
Hmmmm, I think this guy’s got his wires crossed,
I only posted my trailer on this group… I’ve had 2 calls… no takers as
of yet, but 1 really interested, (and by a personal contact….) and I’ve
responded to both E-mails.
I’m easily referenced by my e-mail, and I have no interest in any E-mails
except anyone looking for a good used camping trailer.
There are very strange people on these news groups ruining it for normal
people.

Question
My furnace blower is operating continously regardless of the
thermostat temperature  postion ( or thermostat fan switch postion
either) . The burner controls seem th operate as far as delivering
heat properly wtih termostat settings.  Stuck fan relay or what ? -
Could someone give me a little troubleshooting help here ? – Than ks
The system is a 1998 model Goodman ( don’t bash me  – it came with the
house ).
This is Turtle.

I see this every once in a while on the janitrol/goodman gas furnaces. It is
the relay board problem. There is a white relay attach to the board on the
top right hand corner that sticks , which is to control the fan fuctions.
This would be the problem 90% of the time , but 10% of the time it can be
coming from other problems.  # 1  Defective thermostat still calling for fan
in off mode. # 2  Wired up wrong or a shorted wire in 24 volt lines. You can
remove control wire from furnace to alimanate the thermostat and a short by
doing this. Do remove power before working on this furnace if your a do it
yourselfer.

Now you said it was a 1998 model and if that’s the case. It is still under
the all free parts for the first 5 years of service. You will have to have a
service company that will warrent Goodman parts to get the free parts.

Answers
Thanks Turtle.  I’ll double check the mfg date and  contact a
contractor who deals with Goodman /  Janitrol .

BTW- just in case- Is the relay removable ( soldered or not ? ) to
the control board and I’am curious if there is an aftermarket
universal replacement  for this board

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: No estimate, no signed contract; ten days later and overcharged for a Goodman furnace – must we still pay?
My husband was shootin the breeze with a commercial contractor who did business at my husband’s place of employment. the commercial contractor said “oh I can put in a furnace for you-I’ll have a couple of guys over on their spare time and they’ll put it in. we can do C/A for you too” Well, my husband agreed. We have a 1600 sq foot home. It took them ten days later to put in a poor quality furnace (Goodman) and Lochnivar water heater. then billed us $5,200. The furnace is at the east end of the ranch house and there was very little duct work to do. there was a new chimney liner put in. Are we bound to pay this ridiculous fee. I asked for a detailed bill and it shows an X at the bottom of the sheet where there is NO customer signature–that part is blank.

• Answer:who was the fool that let them in to do the work? if you thought goodman was a poor product why did you allow it to be installed? goodman hasn`t doubled there profits in the last 4 years by making a bad product and increases their market share every year for nothing, currently goodman is #2 in hvac and quickly comming up on carrier.

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: Anyone else have Janitrol/Goodman furnace complaints?
My heat exchanger on a 10 year old Janitrol went bad. Sure the company warranty exchanged the part, but it still cost me over $400 in labor… YIKES ! ! ! Learn from my MISTAKE, NEVER… and I mean NEVER buy a Janitrol

• Answer:I have said before on this forum that Janitrol has been building furnaces for over a hundred years. I have one installed in 1995 with absolutely no problems. Have installed several others in rentals. No problems. All heat exchangers are subject to potential problems, no matter what brand. I have seen them go bad (not Janitrol but other big name brands) in four years, and have seen some outlast the entire furnace over a twenty year period. So, my experience is good with Janitrol, although it appears it is the cost of the work that bothers you, and the fact that the unit happened to go bad before you thought it should. An awful lot depends on how your climate is and how much and how long your unit is running.

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: Goodman furnace: My heater is acting up?
I changed a few minor parts including the pressure switch, flame sensor & and thermostat. But it still has a mind of it’s own. It fires up most of the time but not always? When it doesn’t light it begins to fire up, but the flame fails to stay lit. The diagnostic light on the board states all is well?

• Answer:i’ll answer, though it probably won’t do you any good. lol! last year our furnace had a loose connection so the damn thing would just shut off whenever it felt like it. luckily it was under the home warrenty still so it didn’t cost much to fix. how old is it? do you still have the manual for it? if not you can try to find it online. if that doesn’t work, go to lowes or home depot and ask one of the guys there. they might give you some ideas to try before calling in someone to look at it. nice time for it to go, right? good luck!

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: Goodman Furnace Issues, experienced HVAC techs please help!!?
Goodman GMS80903BNA furnace. some history – I am an auto electrician by trade so I am versed in electrical schematics, meter usage, etc, but I do not know much about household HVAC. this furnace has not been working quite right since we moved in 2.5 years ago. the house is 6 years old. First: For a while, Blower (on AC or Heat) would turn on and stay on for about 10 min. then it would cycle every 30 seconds however desired temp was not reached. Second, Blower more recently seemed to have a hard time starting, you could hear a humm when it would try and start, and you could tell it was having a hard time getting going, but eventually it would start. 1 week later, Blower motor wont start, no hmm, no nothing. the Induction blower will, and burners will start, then primary limit switch shows 24 volts on both sides, however eventually breaks it’s circuit, and shuts everything off, giving a code of 4 flashes (open limit switch). I know it is doing this because the blower is not kicking in so it is getting too hot in the heat exchanger I have done a test on the capacitor and it tests good, and I have tried to manually shove the motor to give it a kick start, but that did not work.I will replace the capacitor with the motor if the motor needs to be replaced. Questions: so I have 120vac at the fan relay output wire (black on Heat H terminal) when fan mode is on, Relay clicks strong and power is sent to the NO side so I assume fan should run, even with a manualshove, fan still wont run, any time I have seen this in automotive stuff, the motor has been shot, am I right to assume that here or am I missing something else…? 2. Upon reading of the wiring schematic, the wiring from the motor to the board appears to be incorrect. There is a “Heat” terminal and a “cool” terminal on the circuit board, but the original installer has jumped the Heat and cool terminals together, and hooked that to the black wire of the motor.The orange wire (according to the schematic) is supposed to go on the “heat” terminal, and the Black wire is supposed to go on the “cool” terminal. Any reason for this jump, could this have caused some of my problems. the orange wire is just hanging out not connected to anything, even connected to the correct place wth the jumper removed, the blower still does not come on. I did call HVAC tech Once.Those guys never pulled out a meter and hardley even opened the door before telling me I need a new circuit board. They said that they would order it, and then they never came back. Now, i deal with alot of circuit boards and I have never seen one have more then 1 problem with 1 componant. they don’t just all of a sudden go bad. everything on that circuit board I could test and replace, so if I need to replace a PCB mounted fan relay,I will (of course I can’t test it’s ability to hold amperage without the blower motor running). I am telling you this and asking you to please not tell me I need to call a Tech. I guarantee I can troubleshoot and repair this problem without just “replacing” parts that I don’t think need to be replaced, I just don’t have the knowlege on why it is not wired according to the goodman diagram… I am not an idiot with electrical Stuff, I just need to know if there is a reason why someone would wire this against what the wiring diagram says. Replaced the blower and Capcitor and the furnace works better than ever. If your local HVAC tech tells you that you need a new mainboard, get a second opinion! They don’t just “go out” without something weird happening. They would have replaced that main board, and it still would not have worked right! For something so basic, and a common problem, I would have thought the hvac tech would have caught this, but they didn’t. I personally think what happened was: The capcitor was going bad, so the motor didn’t have it’s extra oomph to get running, or it’s consitant voltage to stay running. This caused heat and relay overloads causing it to cycle. cycling became more difficult as the capicitor got weaker and weaker, and soon tripped the thermal overload in the motor because of heat created by the higher amp draw. The first time the HVAC techs came, I am thinking they should have replaced the $15 capacitor and it would have worked great…..

• Answer:check it like i would any other motor . wire it direct spin in direction of rotation ,wont motor on its own spin other way , wont run replace motor . runs capacitor or other control…i know how you feel about people who comes to your house to check some thing elect. and never pulls out at least a multi meter …before i retired the first thing to come out of my truck was my lap top second was my multi meter . 38 yrs as a cat Field tech.

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: The Power Venter (also known as Heat Inducer and Draft Inducer) will not start on my Goodman Furnace.?
FURNACE: Made by: Goodman Model #: GMPN080-4 THE POWER VENTER (this is what the Goodman manual calls it but other websites refer to this as the Heat or Draft Inducer): Made by: FASCO Industries 70219565 Type: U218 Volts: 115 RPM3400 Customer Part #: B2833001S I have been troubleshooting this all day and this is what I have learned: The Thermostat is ok. The Indoor Blower (Main Blower) is ok. I can turn on just the fan from the thermostat and it turns on. Everything was working fine and then something happened. I have not moved any wires or made any changes. Here are the sequence of events: I turn on the heat from the thermostat. The Thermostat clicks telling the furnace to turn on the heat. The furnace has a humming sound coming from it. This is the Power Venter/Heat Inducer trying to turn on. The indicator light blinks three times. The panel explains that this means: “Pressure switch failure to close. check venter, pressure switch, vent blockage” The humming sound will stop and then begin again but nothing happens. Also during this time a burning smell is coming from the power venter. It smells like burnt plastic but I am not sure what it is. I attempted to move the fan blades on the Power Vetner with a screw driver but the fan blades are not accessible. My next step is to remove the Power Venter, open it up and clean it. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

• Answer:When you call for heat the first thing that comes on is the power ventilator or inducer motor,then the igniter is activated then the gas valve opens. the motor is not running then it is bad.now how handy are you,can you jump out the motor 110v jump it out directly see if it runs if not it is confirmed bad motor. always have a back up heater available the new furnaces are a problem espec:-goodman they are about as cheep as you can get.Thermo-pride is the best-life time warranty on heat exchanger 10 years all parts guarantee not warranty.then trane,carrier,lennox,Frigidaire,then everything else. HVAC goodman furnas means you will have to deal with a service tech company to replace under warrenty but if you are capable and want to buy a good one and do it your self for less then the labor some one like I would chare for the warrentee part replacement and if not this is the sight to go to anyway. luck

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: Goodman furnace — 4 red LED blinks indicating – high open limit?
We have this problem happen before when the power went out it trips the limits so it doesn’t burn up the blower. The first tech that came out misdiagnosed it that time and a second tech came out to explain that the part wasn’t bad that the two limit switches (one on the left side of the blower) had to be pressed to reset them. A transformer blew outside our house last night and the power was out. As you can guess i have no heat but the blower comes on, and we are to have our first snow tonight. the indicator is blinking 4 times showing the same as when the techs came out showing high open limit. I need help locating these “limit switches” that need to be reset. I can’t really follow the diagram on the panel doesn’t make much sense. Please! any help appreciated!!

• Answer:Look at the wiring diagram and note the wire color. You will be able to follow the color to the limit. Usually purple. There may be several limits in the same wiring circuit so just follow. The high limit is located on the wall below the burner area if this is an up-flow. The switch itself extends through the wall. This is not a resettable switch. It will reset once cooled off, if not it is defective. Connecting the two wires together that go to it will bypass it to check the rest of the operation. Do not leave it like that. These limit switches can stick and not reset possibly due to constant overheating.

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: furnace and heating duct questions?
This is a two part question. My home has a Bryant Quietline furnace, you can tell its very old. It runs quite a long time to heat my 750sq foot home and I don’t keep the heat very high, it just works hard to do a very little. For savings and saftey reasons I would like to replace it soon. First questions, what size btu unit would I be looking at for about 750sq feet? The home is very well insulated in the attic, but has windows that are getting close to needed replaced. I would think that 45,000 3 ton or 70,000 4 ton would be good since the home is fairly small. What would you recommend? I just glanced at http://www.acdirect.com/goodman_ruud_gas_furnaces_.php for prices and those units run about $800 on that site, is about what I should expect? 2. I’ve questioned the duct work since I moved in. Heres why. The house is built on a concrete slab. The duct work appears to consist of areas left open within the concrete slab to allow air flow. Hard to describe, duct work cont. but from what i can tell, i would describe it as if they blocked out areas for the duct work. poured concrete for the foundation slab and then removed boards and had a maze concrete based tunnels for duct work. I can’t see how this would be efficent wouldn’t the heat be lost in the concrete? I was thinking to have some duct work placed in the attic and have the vents come from the ceiling. Since the home is not that big it could be accomplished with 8 ceiling vents thats about 2 per room. Is this thousands of dollars worth of work just in doing this? Please give me your advise on anything you can. I’ve wondering about this stuff for a very long time Thanks Ryan

• Answer:A 2 ton would do it for 750 sq.ft That would be 8 regular sized vents.The air has to be vented because if it is not you would have backflow and this would ruin your new unit.The vents are 100 cfm per vent and every ton is 400 cfm.So a 4 ton would require 16 vents.A Goodman unit is a pretty good one for the price these are what I install.

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: Why does air comes out “sides” of furnace?
I’m a first time homeowner and I’ve never had a furnace. I have a Goodman GKS9 gas-fired warm air furnace. There is also a Goodman central air unit. My question is Why does air blow out the sides of the furnace? It’s not the duct work part I’m talking about, but in between the sides of the top part of the furnace and the bottom part. I don’t think there is anything wrong, but I just don’t understand why the air comes out from that part of the furnace. I’ve read the instruction manual and can’t find an answer. I know this is probably just a common sense thing, but I’ve never even seen a furnace before. Thanks

• Answer:Sounds like a possible ill-fitting air handler/blower box to heat exchanger then H/E to plenum connection. Have a static pressure/airflow test done. If you have any dampers in the entire system closed, open them immediately…..as back pressure is not good for any system, wastes massive amounts of electricity and possibly could freeze the evaporator.

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: When the Central A/C unit is changed the the heater have to be changed?
We live in AZ, the furnace is more for air handling than anything but we need a new outdoor unit, we are upgrading from a 11 seer Goodman to a 16 seer Bryant a/c unit. Does the furnace part need to be changed? Thanks

• Answer:It depends, you have a lot of options, before I go to far here you need to first understand that the a/c is a system which includes the outdoor unit, indoor coil, and furnace (since the blower for the a/c is in the furnace) as well as ductwork. 1. If you are upgrading the outdoor unit to a 16 seer, and leave the rest of the equipment your system will not opearte as a whole at a 16 seer level, since it will be matched up with a less effecient indoor coil and blower. Yes it would be more effeicient than what you already have but like I said you wouldn’t have the 16 seer. Also if you keep the indoor coil which is connected to the outdoor unit you will need to replace the metering device at the inddor coil to match the 410-a in the outdoor unit, I’m guessing the indoor coil and the unit you currently have is set for r-22 or freon. 2. A better option would be to replace the outdoor unit as well as the indoor coil, that would increase the seer more and you wouldn’t have to bother matching the metering device. Systems will operate better together when matched or atleast operate to design. Other thing to consider is indoor coils will typically begin to leak refrigearnt after around 10 years due to the corrosion caused by the condesation, and since r-410a operates at 50% higher pressures, a leak at the inddor coil will become more severe over time. 3. Best option would be to replace all three, In order to get the 16 seer you’ll need a variable speed blower motor which operates with less energy. 4. Last consideration is your ductwork, I’ve done a/c service work in Phoenix for 2 summers and I know that every return air duct is undersized, Having this will cut down on the efficiency, and if you have a variable speed blower put in it will decrease the life of the motor, if you keep the old furnace the life of the PSC motor is not effected by this but instead the amount of airflow is decreased which will also decrease the seer, that is having poor ductwork, ecspecially undersized return air. If it was me and I know money is tight for just about everyone, I would look at replacing both coils, indoor and outdoor and leaving the furnace. Also Bryant I’m not big on. I would rather have a 14 or 15 seer lennox or trane, but thats just me, if you do the bryant look into an extended warranty. Last I remeber some manufacturers were giving away free 10 extended warranties with their equipment, so I would consider that as well, more so than just looking at the seer rating, because unless you go through and have all the bells as whistels done you will not see the full seer rating, ecspecially with that poor flex duct they run all through the attic in AZ that sits in 150F heat and isn’t sealed very well. good luck

Associated Goodman Parts Furnace Question: How do I find out what the HVAC company is paying for the furnace they are proposing to install?
I’ve received 6 quotes from HVAC companies in my area and they vary from $3,200 to $10,000. The job is understood to be the same scope by all the companies, and for the most part the furnaces are pretty similar – just different brands. I would like to know if there is a way for a customer like me to find out the cost on these furnaces so I can see who’s being fair. I know a goodman 2 stage 80% will cost less than an amana 2 stage 80%, but I want to know just how much less. I doubt it is thousands of dollars. Thanks …and I’ve asked, but they politely skirt the issue of telling me how much they are paying for the furnace. Also, is the material for ducts and dampers significant for a 1200 sqft one story home? Or just a few hundred dollars.

• Answer:That’s too much range to be in the price of the furnaces. Someone is missing something or their not the same end result. There should only be about a few hundred between them not thousands. You need more detail of what they plan to do. You can get a pretty fair idea of the furnace costs on the web but remember they sell in quantity and handling any kind of warranty can be a nightmare when your not dealing with someone who sells and installs. Some brands you will not be able to find prices on as those manufacturers want qualified dealers to handle selling and installing to the end user to ensure they are properly installed to eliminate problems to the equipment by misapplication or improperly installed. The duct work costs may be 2-$3,000.00 depending on the scope of work.

Question
I had a 0-30 psi pressure gauge on my steam furnace. It always said zero
even if the furnace had been running for a while. I just replaced it with
a
0-5 psi gauge which also never moves.

I expected to see the pressure going between 1.5 and 2.5 psi when the
furnace was on since this is what my Pressuretrol is set for. Is this an
unreasonable expectation or is this evidence of a blockage between the
aren’t closing? I thought I was going to see some pressure. Thanks.
Answers
Steam type boilers sometime run in the ounces of pressure range, especially
if they are one-pipe systems.

When was the last time it was serviced? The reason I ask is that if the
pigtail serving the gauge is blocked, the one on the pressurestat may not be
far behind. If you had vents not closing on the radiators ( and that
happens on one-pipe systems), you’d know from all the water on the floor
around the radiators.

There is a site dedicated to steam and hydronic heat, www.heatinghelp.com.
If you have questions for those of us that work on steam stuff a lot, go to
the Wall on that site. Here’s the link.

http://www.heatinghelp.com/wall_forum.cfm

Good luck.
Associated Furnace Stea Question:On a home steam furnace, what position are the 2 valves supposed to be in?
I just rented a house with a steam heating system and was told as part of the regular maintenance I would have to flush and refill the system every week. There are 2 valves by the sight glass, one valve is above and one below. I open both valves before I flush the system and then refill with fresh water. after the water level reaches the correct point do I close both of these valves or leave one open?

• Answer:You can do either, leave them open or closed ….. their purpose is to isolate the sight glass. The sight glass is to give water level indication.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:steam furnace- main steam valve, too big?
plumber saw the valve and said thats too big for a residential system (low pressure) so i replaced it. what happens if the valve is too big? one thing i know for sure is that valve never once had steam come out, whereas our other furnace has steam come out every so often.

• Answer:a large valve can allow too much flow causeing a pressure block in the system,

Associated Furnace Stea Question:What is the proper way to startup a gas-powered, steam hot water furnace for the winter?
I’ve shut down my furnace before summer, drained it, and now wish to turn it back on. Need to refill it obviously, but is there anything else required to re-enable it.

• Answer:First, it’s not a furnace, it’s a boiler. Furnaces heat air. It is gas fueled not gas powered, electricity runs the controls and pumps. Now that the seals have shrunken because you drained it, it may leak like a sieve. Who advises you to do such stupid things? Refill it to the correct level and NEVER drain it again. All draining does is introduce oxygen-laden water to help it rust out faster. If the water in the glass is rusty, it’s because you caused it. Leave the water alone and add only make up water as needed. Light the pilot if there is one, newer boilers use a spark to light the burner like your stove and clothes dryer. Open the boiler’s gas valve. Raise the temperature on the thermostat and it should fire up. By the way, if it leaks, let it run a day or so. Maybe the leaks will seal themselves. If they don’t, boiler stop leak poured into a top tapping will seal them, but the boiler water will be brown. It clears eventually.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:I had a new gas steam furnace installed now my pipes are banging?
everytime the heat comes on.. I have replaced all of the pressure releive valves and it still bangs. what can i do

• Answer:Don’t touch the radiators, you don’t have to bleed them because they are steam. It sound like the condensed water from the steam is having a problem flowing back to the furnace. The plumbers may have installed a smaller pipe on the steam head. You are getting water hammer in the lines. This is caused by the steam trying to go up to the radiators and the condensed water is trying to get back to the furnace and somewhere in between they are colliding causing the water hammer. You may have to call them back to either put a larger feed or change the pitch of the pipe so the water can flow back before the steam builds up. No danger just noisy. You may have more steam from the new unit than the old and the pipes need to be enlarged or pitch changed to take the additional upgrade. When you say pressure relief valves you mean the air vents on each radiator, right?

Associated Furnace Stea Question:we hear a loud humming like vibration from our steam heat furnace.?
we can hear this loud vibrations after the burner runs through a long cycle. it is not a loud banging sound but more like a hum that starts softly, gets louder, and then quiet again after about 20 seconds. it is a vibration of somekind but what?

• Answer:I had something like this happen to me. mine was a loud banging instead. apparently since we have steam or hot water heat,theres air constantly flowing through the tubes. dont worry,its normal.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:I have steam heated radiators.The furnace is natural gas and not old.?
When the heat kicks on the steam pipes make a horrible clunking sound.Possible causes anyone?

• Answer:That is called water hammering. When steam rises and meets the condensate water in the lines you get a small battle inside. The steam is forcing the water back up the pipe and gets blocked. Make sure you have the right pitch on the radiators to let the water flow back out of the system to the boiler. You may have to shim up the radiators on the air vent end to force water to flow back to the boiler after the steam is stopped.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:what is the difference between a hot water boiler and a steam boiler furnace for a residents?

• Answer:Hot water is usually heated to 180 degrees, circulatory pump is needed. Also at times zone valves. Stat opens zone valve, end switch on zone valve starts circ. pump Steam water heated to 212 degrees an above, have stats on radiators.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:What kind of furnace can replace a steam boiler?

• Answer:Usually, a fored air furnace. The modern ones are typically smaller than old fashioned steam boilers, and can be connected to the same ducting system. The problem is removing the old steam boiler.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:furnace- steam system- draining water?
two heating guys- one says drain water from the furnace every so often to remove the crap that gets in there from the pipes and furnace itself. the other says don’t touch the water, other than filling it when it needs it, let it get all cruddy and disgusting. its bad to add water because of minerals or something. ?

• Answer:Both are right; Periodic draining does remove loose scale and deposits. Adding un-treated water does introduce contaminates(minerals and chemicals typically found in tap water) Ideally,the system is treated based on the condition of the existing condensate and any make-up water added is de-ionized treated water.After addition of make-up water,system is checked and treated again. Your typical domestic boiler is nothing more that a super-charged hot water heater.Drain the scum and sediment out once a year and expect to replace the system after 15 to 20 years.

Associated Furnace Stea Question:Is my steam shower powered by my furnace?
I had a carbon monoxide leak coming from my second floor furnace, so weve had it shut off since. But i was wondering if i could use the steamer (is that even what its called?) beacause i wasnt shure weather or not its powered by the furnace or if its the hot water heater.

• Answer:If you try and get steam you will know if it is the heater (99% chance that it is on a separated heater) look at the building plans.

Question
I almost wrestled this metal treatment text down, but in the last few lines,
it’s getting mean at me again:

“Figure 3.3 shows LiMCA II measurements obtained at the furnace exit of a
***casting earth furnace***.”

I just don’t know what they mean here. Neither “casting earth” nor “earth
furnace” seem to make sense (larger context is still aluminium casting and
melt treatment). Any ideas? The figure is no help at all, just a graph.
Answers
Well, at least there is something like a “Herdofen” (hearth furnace) in
German. And it also seems to be used in casting, an “open-hearth furnace”
being a “Siemens-Martin-Ofen” or “SM-Ofen” in German. So it’s rather likely
that this is yet another typo and that they are talking about a hearth
furnace. Thanks a lot!

Associated Furnace Casting Question:What should the pressure on my furnace be? Does it make a difference what the weather outside is?
I have dual heating system with a cast iron furnace for 2 floors and a basement. What should the pressure (PSI I think) be? It is now pretty much at 14 but the house is warm. I am told this is way too low. Should i worry about it? Its been like this for more then a week now

• Answer:I believe you are talking about a hot water heating system. If so, the pressure should be between 12# and 30#. The boiler feed valve is probably set at about 13# and if the temperature gets over 30# there is a relief valve that will pop and the pressure should return to 13#. As long as you have heat, all should be fine. Hope to help!

Associated Furnace Casting Question:What is the effect of surface contamination on a casting of Inconel 718?
The issue is that I have a casting that has some blueing on the surface. Is this the result of heat treating the casting in an air furnace versus a vacuum furnace? Also, what exactly is surface contamination for this material?

• Answer:It very well may be surface only discoloration…buff an area and see.Just because it blued a little is no reason to think it is contaminated deeper. The blueing is oxadation due to the heat.

Associated Furnace Casting Question:How can I build a self-sustaining cast-iron furnace in my backyard?
The kind that you feed iron oxide and carbon and yields molten iron.

• Answer:i love how you answer questions.. learn to be respectful

Associated Furnace Casting Question:How to turn junk silver into good casting grain for later use?
I have alot of scrap silver that I want to melt into casting grain..I have a furnace that I have melted silver in before but I cant seem to get the nice small grains for ease of melting later..I also have some .999 fine that I want to turn into sterling casting grain..Any help would be great Thanks

• Answer:generally I don’t think it’s worth the bother. The problem is that your sterling silver is an alloy, and whenever you melt it, some of the metal with a lower melting point vaporizes. Repeated melting and casting doesn’t really improve the metal. I never bothered to convert scrap metal in an extra step into casting grain. But out of curiosity I looked it up and it’s apparently done by pouring molten metal into a large bucket of water. Sounds not entirely safe, but I guess if the quantity of the metal used at one time isn’t too great it shouldn’t be too bad if you keep your head out of the hot steam and wear a faceshield. Not sure about turning fine silver into sterling silver, because I think there are quite a number of different alloys of sterling silver which have different additives beside copper. If you really want to try that I would search through some books for professional jewelers. I think it will require some reading for if you want to use it for anything you want to sell you have to make sure you still have the required silver content.

Associated Furnace Casting Question:about how much is it to replace a oil furnace?
I have an old furnace, with a cast iron boiler, hot water baseboard heat. I’ve been having alot of problems with it and I know its time to replace it. I want to rplace it with another oil burner, so my question is how much am I looking to spend on the furnace plus install. Just a rough estimate

• Answer:Really depends on what brand you want, if you have to have new pipes installed. Our range for installation is about $4000 – $4500. Call your local hvac company and have them give you a free estimate. Get a few estimates but don’t always go with the cheapest, because sometimes you get what you pay for. Our company recommends Buderus boiler with outdoor reset.

Associated Furnace Casting Question:casting in cuppola furnace?

• Answer:Yes? well, one doesn’t exactly cast _in_ a cupola, it is used for melting the metal (usually iron) which is then tapped and cast in a separate mold, most often a sand mold for iron.

Associated Furnace Casting Question:What mold should i use for metal casting?
i want to make high detail metal casts and am having trouble deciding what method to use for the moulds. my product will be high detail metal turtles of my own design that i want to mass produce at home with my furnace. should i use green sand casting or a more suited method. Please help

• Answer:you first need to figure out what metal you are going to use. Green sand casting is generally not a method for high detail, though you can use graphite powder to improve it. A reasonably cheap standard mold material is a silicon sand/plaster mix, though your mold will need to be completely dry – and that means heated up before you can cast metal into it. There is also some investment material (e.g. Kerr) for jewelry which is a bit better at detail and not cracking, but unless a store in town has it, shipping costs make it rather expensive. If you have a low melting point metal like pewter there are silicone molding materials which can actually withstand the temperature.

Associated Furnace Casting Question:Anyone have any great websites about hobby Metal Casting?
Well, this is more like a request then a question, really. I need some information on the general overview of metal casting. All the websites I have found seem to focus on furnace types or mold construction where as I need just an explanation on the hobby of metal casting as a whole. Thanks for any information!

• Answer:go to youtube.com also go to amazon.com Look under the retail listings for books. there are used books same book for sale. I got metal casting books for as low as .44 on there. you can also go to http://www.revereacademy.com/faculty/mccreight.html he is the god of metal casting.

Associated Furnace Casting Question:how old was shadrach ,meshach,and abed-nego when cast into the furnace?

• Answer:I would venture to say that they were in their mid to late 20`s

Associated Furnace Casting Question:Mat 13:42 And shall cast them into a furnace of fire: there shall be wailing and gnashing of teeth?
This is supposed to be for eternity, And it doesn’t matter how good you are it only matters if you believe in god Does this really sound like the all good, all loving god the bible tells us about. Or do you think the penalty fits the crime?

• Answer:Yes, very much so. The problem with your question is, you are using the wrong analogy, and that is leading your thinking into absurd directions. Heaven (and Hell) isn’t about “penalty” and “crime” and “justice” and “judging”. It works like this. You accept Jesus Christ as your Lord and Savior, you get into Heaven. You don’t do that, you go to Hell. Period. It’s not like being judged in a court, its more like being on a sinking ship. You get into a lifeboat you live. You don’t get into a lifeboat, you die. Period, End of story. THAT is the better analogy you should be using. There is no “justice” involved at all. The reason there is no Justice involved is because God IS all loving and all forgiving. If there was any justice involved NOBODY would get into Heaven, PERIOD. NOBODY. Think about it… Jesus said (and forgive me if I misquote) “Whatever you do unto the least of these, you do unto me.” So EVERYONE you ever hurt in your life…from the geeky kid you teased and beat up in 3rd grade, to the girls you used and dumped in college, to the guy who’s Porche you dented in the parking lot and you didn’t leave a note, to the boss you steal from when he pays you for 8 hours work and you goof off for 3 of them, to everyone you have ever used, hurt, or lied to…you did that to Jesus… and what’s worse, everyone you didn’t help, from the homeless guy you drive past on the road, to the kids on the Christian Children’s Fund commercial you flip through, to the guy who died because you were afraid to donate blood, to the Mormon missionary you slammed the door on… well Jesus also said ‘I tell you with certainty, since you didn’t do it for one of the least important of these, you didn’t do it for me.’ Think about that…do you REALLY want to introduce Justice into this equation? I sure as heck don’t! So God, in his loving grace, has removed justice from the equation. Totally. Now EVERYBODY, if they sincerely accept Jesus, can get into heaven. Stalin, Hitler, Jack the Ripper…if they sincerely repent they can be forgiven and welcomed into the company of the saints. So yes, it does VERY MUCH sound like the all loving God the Bible tells us about.

Question
My HVAC guy told me my 70’s model Fedders electric furnace needed to be
replaced because the 2 of the 3 elements were inoperable and were obsolete.
So
I got 3 universal repair kits and some extra ceramic insulators and rebuilt
the
elemeats and intalled them. BUT–now they don’t all come on at once each
time it starts up and then the fan only stayed on for a few seconds. I
adjusted the inside adjustment thing in the thermostat, moving it to a higher

number. Dunno what this means, but the fan now will stay on for a minute or
two.
Is there an easy way to check or adjust the sequencers?. Should I just go
ahead and replace them? Should I replace the ancient thermostat?

Any advise would be much appreciated.
Answers
buy a cord of wood and throw it into the fireplace. whats that you say? no
fireplace? well there ya go, you sound like the handyman type, build one.
After ya got a nice hot fire going and the house is toasty warm, invite your
hvac guy back over for a glass of milk and a plate of fresh home baked
chocolate chip cookies.

Dont like that advise? how about this: forget spendin money to fix or replace
your electric furnace and spend your winter months in Rio de Janeiro.
Send a post card from there to your hvac guy.

Associated Fedders Furnace Question: where to get a Fedders’ furnace fan motor?

• all you need is the frame # and rpm, +serial # & voltage it can be cross referenced

Associated Fedders Furnace Question: Furnace parts…best online warehouse? Im looking for places that sell motor fans that are serviceable for FEDDERS furnaces. We have a huge, old FEDDERS that needs a new motor. We are not sure when the model was made. Maybe 70s I think, idk. What is the best warehouse on the internet? Thanks

• They are all about the same. I would try locally first like Graingers, Johnstone Supply, or u can get purchase one from any Heating and A/C contractor in your area. You will need the Model Number from the furnace. On Fedders take the metal cover off that’s in front of the burners. Look on the inside left of the furnace and you will see the data tag with all the info you need. If possible remove the motor and take it with you so you are sure it is a match. This is a common motor so any where you try should have it.

Associated Fedders Furnace Question: Need information on various through the wall heating and air conditioning units.?
A putting up a 30X50 near Lake of Ozarks in Missouri. 20X30 will be living quarters and we need to find a way to heat and air condition the place without doing a complete furnace and AC unit along with ducting. Have looked at a lot of places on internet and many have AC with heat, and it looks like I will need between 18K and 20K BTU even with 2X6 walls and R 19 insulation. Anyone have experience with AC with Heat units (similar to those found in motels, but that don’t run continuously, and that do run 220v with thermostat? Have seen specs, etc., on Fridgidaire, GE, Fedders, etc., but cannot get a decent price on them even on internet, and shipping raises the costs even more. Advice? Experience with similar units? Appreciated. Thanks.

• If I am correct I think the a/c heater combo your looking for is not going to be found the last one my boss bought was about $275.00 so they are not going to be cheap most a/c heaters will shut off by themselfs if you set it to